After visiting The National Museum in Banjul and seeing how life in the past was, I felt the urge to go deep into the provinces where mud huts are with thatched roofs.

I wanted to get a feel of past times and how Gambian ancestors lived. I was advised to visit ‘Makasuto’ which is apparently a nature reserve with traditional homes and even includes a storyteller as part of the guided tour. Instead, on the toss of a coin, I took another option and visited Tanje Museum.

A large part of the museum is a living exhibition, built as a traditional Mandinka village. I was taken on a guided tour back into the past, receiving clear insight into how life was pre and post colonial times. As well as learning of rural activities, I gained understanding of family life and the social cohesion which is still apparent today.

I was informed that the museum is privately owned and was independently set up and run by a Gambian. Afterwards I sat in the large Bantaba discussing with a few men how inspiring the tour was. Seemingly tired from the effects of the Ramadan and the hot sun, one of the men lay casually on a bench catching the shade. I asked him about the Gambian man who was responsible for setting up this achievement. To my surprise he introduced himself as Abdoulie Bayo, the founder and owner of the museum.

Between the 1970s and 1980s Abdoulie studied various ‘Museuology’ related courses in countries such as Italy, Nigeria, Mali, Holland and North America. He has awards in Scientific Principles of Conservation and has received a High Diploma in ‘Museulogy’. For nearly 20 years he enjoyed working for the National Museum in Banjul, but in 1997, inspired by his accumulated knowledge, he gave up his post to set up his own museum. With a sea view restaurant, lodges, shops, galleries and a Banta bar, Tanje Museum stands as the largest in The Gambia.

I asked Abdoulie why he chose the Mandinka village as a theme.  "The original idea was to show how all the major tribes in The Gambia live, focusing on their differences and similarities. The museum is not completed. I plan to introduce the other major tribes within their compounds. I had to start some where and since I was raised in a Mandinka village, it is what I know best".

What was life like for Abdoulie being raised in a Mandinka village? Was story telling included into his early experiences and if so how did it enrich him? When I asked he replied "My grandmother Fatounata Makalo and the elders told us stories all the time. All we had to do was buy them kola nuts or snuff. Mama Fatounata was a very good pipe smoker and enjoyed her tobacco while telling tales"

Pausing briefly to laugh at his recollection, he continued saying, "Things were a lot better then, because in our generation we had respect and knew how to behave. The values of village life taught us that". In a recent article titled ‘Discovering theatre in The Gambia’, I spoke about the kankurangs that I saw parading through the areas around Serekunda as part of circumcision ceremonies. These ceremonies in the towns are a diluted version of the ones that take place in the provinces.

I have heard in discussion that the current generation of youth have lost degrees of respect owing to not attending traditional circumcision ceremonies. Abdoulie felt that this was one reason for the loss of respect in society. I asked him his thoughts on the advertising campaigns that aim to end female and bush circumcisions.

"They missed the point about circumcision and think that it is just about a piece of flesh being cut. There is deeper meaning and significance. Westerners came and criticized female circumcision and the medical harms of it have been highlighted. Perhaps there is harm and perhaps there is a strong argument for it to be stopped. Either way, the traditional ritual that goes along with circumcision should remain.

It involves a Kintango that teaches boys and girls how to be responsible men and women. Some of the bush discipline may have been too harsh or even brutal, but at the end of the day we all learnt respect. Today people just go to the local hospital and circumcise a child or even baby without initiation. What experience can that child claim to learn?"

My thoughts began to touch on the youth in England who behave far worse than their Gambian counterparts. In particular, there is a huge problem with young black males killing each other, mainly with guns and knives. My home town Manchester, also known as ‘Gun Chester’ has a high rate of deaths. Less discipline as a result of legislation, combined with absent fathers are two main reasons for the decline in behavior.

As an artist I have worked with some of these young males, using stories from my own life experience as a way of offering behavioral support. Before I came to The Gambia, I had the inclination that I would gain cultural knowledge which I could share with the youth in England and guide their adolescence.

I learnt that the Kintangos sing anecdotes and proverbs to their initiates, such as ‘The Parrot and the Eagle’. It is for the initiates to decipher the meaning of the proverbs and to translate them into life situations, ultimately sharpening their wisdom in meeting obstacles and challenges. There is something in this ritual which I could use as a story telling tool to enrich young minds.

I am attracted to the moral teachings of bush circumcisions, and for young males in particular, I think they should continue in a modernized way under safe conditions. To draw a similarity, the army can be a harsh place but it produces soldiers as an end result. It may modify the physical/psychological aspects of its training regime, but the principles that help to achieve good soldiers will remain in place. Children require certain levels of discipline which can be supported by the moral teachings of bush circumcisions.

As explained, one of the reasons for the social deviance with youth in England is due to lack of discipline. Discipline, is not about simply beating a child, it can be attained through appropriate loving guidance. As the bush rituals become less, it will be interesting to see how the future generations of youth behave socially in The Gambia.  

It was time to leave Tanje Museum. I took a last look at the Mandinka village, viewing it as a past model which can serve the future. Still in awe of this significant contribution to Gambian heritage, I asked Abdoulie what his main motivation was for setting up the project. "Gambian culture is quickly eroding and there is a need to preserve it for the future generation. If I was motivated by finance, I would have invested in another business but my passion is to preserve our culture".

Abdoulie kindly gave me a book of folk tales which he compiled from the stories told to him by his grandmother, Fatoumata Makalo. I now keep this book as a valued relic.